How To Go On Ice and Snow
Preface
How To Go On Ice and Snow presents well-illustrated, easy-to-read information
that will aid you in becoming a safe and efficient driver despite winter's
adverse weather conditions.
This section contains information on vehicle systems, driver preparation,
winter driving techniques—starting, tracking and following, steering
and stopping and additional hints and precautions helpful to front-, rear-
and four- wheel-drive vehicle operators. In most cars, the power train
sends power from the engine to only two of the wheels. The wheels that
receive the power are called drive wheels. If the front wheels receive
the power, the car has front-wheel drive. If the rear wheels receive the
power, the car has rear-wheel drive.
A vehicle has four-wheel drive if all four wheels receive the power. On
a slippery surface, four-wheel drive vehicles provide the greatest amount
of traction followed by front-wheel drive vehicles. Rear-wheel drive vehicles
provide the least amount of traction on a slippery surface. To derive the
greatest benefit from this information, it is suggested that you read beforehand
the procedures and techniques described, then practice in a safe, secluded
area.
Preparing the Vehicle
From a mechanical operation aspect, winter conditions— wet,
cold and icy weather—present the greatest challenge to
your engine's operating efficiency. Since these conditions
cannot be avoided, prepare for winter by getting a complete
vehicle checkup in the fall. Check, or have your mechanic check,
the following items:
- Electrical System
- Brake System
- Tires
- The Exhaust System
- Heating & Cooling System
- Windshield Wipers & Washer
1) Electrical System
Battery:
The
heart of your vehicle's electrical system is the battery.
Cold weather starts require a battery that is fully charged.
Recharge or replace weak batteries. If appropriate, check
the fluid levels and make certain the battery posts are clean
and tight. Have your alternator or generator and voltage
regulator checked, too.
Ignition System:
Damaged ignition wires, a cracked distributor cap, or worn
spark plugs can make starting difficult or may cause a sudden
breakdown. A fall car check-up will reveal any problems.
Lights:
Check the headlights, side-marker lights, emergency flashers,
parking lights, directional signals (front and rear), taillights
and brake lights for proper operation.
2)
Brake System
To avoid skids on slippery surfaces you need to prevent the
wheels from locking when brakes are suddenly applied. Many
cars are equipped with antilock brakes. They are designed to
prevent wheel lock and allow you to steer the vehicle during
sudden or panic braking. Brakes should be checked and, if needed,
properly adjusted to ensure equal braking.
3) Tires
Tires
are the only contact your vehicle has with the roadway. The
amount of traction that exists between the tires and roadway
surface determines how well the vehicle starts, turns and stops.
Make certain your tires are properly inflated and in good condition.
Snow tires are recommended, but chains provide the best starting
and stopping performance in severe snow and on icy surfaces.
Radial tires are not snow tires unless they have a snow tread
configuration and are marked "M&S" (Mud & Snow). If
you live in a region that receives light to moderate snowfall,
then a set of all-season radials might be the answer to your
winter driving needs. Added traction can be achieved by mounting
snow tires on the drive wheels. Maximum tire pressure should
not exceed that shown on the tire sidewall (the number is molded
into the rubber). If the use of chains is necessary, they should
be used on all four wheels.
4) The Exhaust System
The
exhaust system serves two main purposes. First, it carries
off carbon monoxide and other harmful gases produced by the
engine. Second, it muffles engine noise. Have a mechanic check
your exhaust system for leaks in order to minimize the chances
of carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is odorless,
very hard to detect, and it can kill. If your car is stuck
in the snow and you have the engine and heater running, open
a window slightly and clear snow away from the exhaust pipe.
5)
Heating & Cooling System
Check your radiator and hoses for leaks and cracks. Make sure
the water pump and thermostat work properly to pump and control
the flow of coolant to maintain the best operating temperature.
In addition, add a sufficient amount of antifreeze to your
vehicle for the coldest weather (at least -30°F). Test the
heater and defroster for proper operation.
6)
Windshield Wipers & Washer
Wipers should be checked for proper functioning. Blades that
streak the windshield should be replaced. The washer reservoir
bottle should be filled with an antifreeze washer solvent.
Winter Driving Kit
The following items carried in your automobile will be invaluable
should an emergency develop:
- Tire chains
- Ice scraper
- Small bag of abrasive (sand, salt or kitty
litter)
- Cloth or roll of material
- Booster cables
- Small snow shovel
- Blanket
- Snow brush • Warning devices
- Traction mats (flares or triangles)
- Flashlight
Preparing
The Driver
To minimize the dangers associated with winter driving, both
the vehicle and the driver must be prepared in advance. For
the driver this means approaching winter driving with the right
frame of mind—always drive at a speed that matches the
prevailing visibility, traffic and road conditions.
Select Clothing
Select clothing that provides warmth, comfort and freedom
of movement. Heavy garments and gloves offer warmth when outside,
but after a few minutes in the car, after the engine has warmed
up, they should be removed for comfort and freedom of movement.
Stop the vehicle in a safe spot to remove any outdoor clothing
rather than compounding a risky situation by struggling out
of a heavy coat while driving. It is neither healthy nor safe
to under- or over-dress before or while driving; among other
things, your ability to concentrate is diminished. A zip-fastened,
lined jacket and a pair of thin leather gloves are ideal for
winter motoring. They give appropriate warmth, comfort and
freedom of movement both inside and outside the vehicle with
minimal adjustment.
See & Be Seen
To
see and be seen by others requires the driver to clean all
snow and ice from the entire vehicle—hood, roof, trunk,
lights and windows. Snow left on any of these areas increases
the possibility that visibility will be affected when the car
is in motion. Before departing, start your car and turn the
heater on for a minute or two before using the defroster. This
will prevent moisture from fogging the windshield when warm
air hits the cold glass. To prevent damage to your wiper blades
or wiper motor, be sure the wipers are off before starting
the engine. Try to avoid driving when visibility is poor, but
if you must drive, keep your speed low, headlights on low beam,
and pull off to a safe spot as soon as possible.
Correct
Seat Position
Correct seat position and use of protective equipment (seatbelts
and sunglasses to combat glare) will aid you in seeing and
performing those gentle, smooth, precise movements necessary
for safe winter motoring. The correct seating position is achieved
when the driver's elbows are slightly bent, and he/she can
effortlessly reach the pedals, operate all controls and turn
the steering wheel. The use of safety belts enhances your ability
to control the vehicle in an emergency by keeping you behind
the wheel.
Winter Driving Techniques: Starting
To
get started, clear a path in front of the wheels for several
feet. This can be accomplished by driving forward and backward
in the parking space, or if the snow is too deep, some additional
shoveling may be required. With the front wheels pointed straight
to minimize rolling resistance, shift to second gear (manual
transmissions) or to drive (automatic transmissions), and with
gentle pressure of the accelerator, try to ease out of the
parking space without spinning the wheels. If you let the wheels
spin, you will only dig deeper.
Some new cars are equipped with traction assist. This device is designed to
prevent wheel spin, especially on a slippery surface when accelerating.
When more traction is needed, use traction mats or spread some sand, salt or
any handy abrasive material in front of and in back of the drive wheels. When
using devices under the wheels for additional traction or when wheels are digging
into dirt or gravel and you are receiving pushing assistance, DO NOT LET ANYONE
STAND DIRECTLY IN LINE WITH THE DRIVE WHEELS—they may be injured by objects
thrown by the spinning wheels. If the wheels continue to spin, creating a deeper
rut, stop and let the tires cool. If nothing works, you might try rocking the
vehicle out of the rut. To rock a vehicle, start slowly in second gear (manual
transmission) or low gear (automatic transmission). When the vehicle will go
no farther forward, release the accelerator to permit the car to roll back.
When the vehicle stops its backward motion, apply minimum pressure on the accelerator
again. Repeat these actions in rapid succession. Each rock should move the
vehicle a little farther forward or back of the hole you are in. When you rock,
you must use minimum power to help prevent the wheels from spinning and digging
in deeper. (Check the owner's manual for recommended procedure.)
Tracking & Following
When
driving on slippery surfaces, remember: traction is greatest
just before the wheels spin. Gentle pressure on the accelerator
pedal when starting is the best method for retaining traction
and avoiding skids—especially if your vehicle is not
equipped with a traction-assist device. If your wheels start
to spin, let up on the accelerator until traction returns.
Once underway, keep going. When approaching a hill, observe how other vehicles
are reacting and keep far enough behind the vehicle immediately ahead so that
you will not have to slow down or stop. This will allow you to maneuver around
any stuck vehicles and to increase your speed (within reason) at or near the
bottom of the hill to give you the extra momentum to carry you over the top.
As you reach the crest of the hill, reduce your speed and proceed down the
hill as slowly as possible. Minimize brake use on very slippery, icy hills;
if further speed reduction is needed, gentle, slow brake application (squeeze
braking) is recommended to avoid locking the wheels and skidding.
Normal dry pavement following distance (2 to 3 seconds) should be increased
to 8 to 10 seconds when driving on icy, slippery surfaces. This increased margin
of safety in front will provide the longer distance needed if you have to stop.
Steering
Snowy
or icy surfaces make steering difficult and require smooth,
careful, precise movements of the steering wheel. Skidding
in which the front, rear or all four wheels move laterally
is caused by hard acceleration or braking, speed too fast for
conditions, and quick jerky movements of the steering wheel.
Skids can best be avoided by anticipating lane changes, turns
and curves; slowing down in advance; and by making smooth,
precise movements of the steering wheel.
If a skid should develop due to deteriorating road conditions and/or high speed,
don't panic. Don't brake. Don't jerk the steering wheel. In all skids, disconnect
the driving force on the drive wheels. To accomplish this, DECLUTCH (manual
shift) or shift to NEUTRAL (automatic shift). De-clutching is easy; however,
shifting to neutral with an automatic transmission is not as easy, requires
practice and should not be attempted unless you are certain of finding neutral
immediately. Next, to maintain or regain directional control, look to where
you want to go and make smooth, precise steering movements.
In cars with automatic transmissions, shift to neutral only
if you are certain of finding neutral immediately. Avoid depressing
the lock mechanism to protect against placing the car in reverse.
Skids
A skid occurs when you apply the brakes so hard that one
or more wheels lock, or if you press hard on the accelerator
and spin the drive wheels. Skids also occur when you are traveling
too fast on a curve and encounter a slippery surface. Skids
fall into three groups: rear-wheel skids, front-wheel skids
and four-wheel skids. Regardless of the type of skid you encounter,
to regain control of your vehicle, DO NOT PANIC!
REAR-WHEEL
SKIDS
The most effective way to get your vehicle back under
control during a skid is as follows:
- Take your foot off the brake if the rear
wheels skid due to hard or panic braking. Ease
off the accelerator if the rear wheels lose
traction due to hard acceleration.
- De-clutch
on a car with a manual transmission or shift
to neutral (if you are certain of finding
neutral immediately) on a car with automatic
transmission.
- Look and steer in the direction
you want the front of the car to go.
- Just before
the rear wheels stop skidding to the right
or left, counter-steer until you are going in
the desired direction.
- In a rear-wheel drive vehicle,
if you over-correct the first skid (Step 4),
be prepared for a rear-wheel skid in the opposite
direction. Practice and the use of timely,
gentle movement of the steering wheel are
necessary to avoid this type of skid.
- Once the
vehicle is straight, release the clutch or
shift to drive, apply gentle accelerator pressure
so that the engine speed matches the road speed,
and accelerate smoothly to a safe speed.
Front-Wheel Skids
Front-wheel
skids are caused by hard braking or accelerating. When the
front wheels lose traction, you will not be able to steer the
vehicle. Sometimes front-wheel skids are perceived as more
dangerous because they are experienced less often. In actuality,
front-wheel skids are easier to correct and less hazardous
because there is no risk of the car skidding in the opposite
direction. Regardless of whether the vehicle has front-, rear-
or four-wheel drive, the best way to regain control if the
front wheels skid is:
-
Take your foot off the brake if the front wheels skid due to hard or panic
braking. Ease your foot off the accelerator if the front wheels lose traction
due to hard acceleration.
- De-clutch on a car with manual transmission,
or shift to neutral (if you are certain of finding
neutral immediately) on a car with automatic
transmission.
- If the front wheels have been turned
prior to the loss of traction, don't move the
steering wheel. Since the wheels are skidding sideways,
a certain amount of braking force will be exerted.
(Unwinding the steering wheel will reduce the
steering angle and result in regaining steering
sooner; however, the vehicle will be traveling
faster because there is little sideways braking
force. This technique should only be attempted
in situations where limited space and sharp curves
exist.)
- Wait for the front wheels to grip the road
again. As soon as traction returns the vehicle
will start to steer again.
- When the front wheels
have regained their grip, steer the wheels gently
in the desired direction of travel.
- Release the
clutch or shift to drive and apply gentle accelerator
pressure so that the engine speed matches the
road speed, and accelerate smoothly to a safe speed.
There is no risk at all of the car skidding in
the opposite direction.
Four-Wheel Skids
Sometimes
all four wheels lose traction. This generally occurs when the
vehicle is driven at a speed too fast for conditions. Here
are three situations that often result in four-wheel skids:
1) you enter a curve that is wet or covered with ice, snow,
sand, gravel or wet leaves; 2) you are driving down the road
and cross a bridge covered with invisible ice, commonly referred
to as "black ice"; 3) you are driving on a slippery straight
road and apply the brakes too hard (generally in this situation
the rear wheels will lock or skid a second or two before the
front wheels). The most effective way to get your vehicle back
under control when all four wheels skid is:
-
Ease foot off the accelerator or take your foot off the brake.
- De-clutch
on a car with manual transmission or shift to neutral (if you are certain
of finding neutral immediately) on a car with automatic transmission.
- Look
and steer in the direction you want the front
of the car to go.
- Wait for the wheels to grip the
road again. As soon as the wheels regain traction,
the vehicle will travel in the desired direction.
- Release
the clutch or shift to drive and maintain a safe
speed.
Stopping
Stopping
on slippery surfaces requires longer seeing, following and
stopping distances. Drivers proficient at driving and braking
on slippery surfaces have acquired these techniques by practicing
in secluded areas beforehand. These drivers are also knowledgeable
of the additional dangers associated with and created by temperature
changes at 32°F—stopping distances on ice are twice as
great as at 0°F—and certain roadway areas such as shaded
spots, bridges, overpasses and intersections. These are areas
where ice is likely to form first or be the slipperiest, because
the shiny ice surface has either been polished by previous
vehicle traffic, or a thin layer of water covers the melting
ice below. To compensate for the longer stopping distances
required when driving on slippery surfaces, focus your attention
as far ahead as possible (at least 20 to 30 seconds) and allow
for the greatest margin of safety to the front. When road conditions
change, so do the braking requirements.
Braking On Ice & Snow
The
most efficient technique for braking under these conditions
is to use threshold or squeeze braking together with de-clutching
(manual shift) or shifting to neutral (automatic transmission).
Braking if you don't have antilock brakes:
If you don't have antilock brakes, the best way to threshold
or squeeze brake (to make a controlled stop) is the heel-and-toe
method. Keep the heel of your foot on the floor and use your
toes to apply firm, steady pressure on the brake pedal just
short of lockup the point at which the wheels stop turning.
But remember you must keep your heel on the floor. The instant
you lift your foot from the floor and place the ball of the
foot on the brake pedal, the wheels will lock because you will
be controlling the brake with your large thigh muscles, which
are incapable of finer control. Under the stress of trying
to stop quickly, drivers almost inevitably overreact and lock
the wheels. If this happens, use toe-and-heel action to release
brake pressure one or two degrees, then immediately reapply
it with slightly less pressure.
Braking with antilock brakes:
If you have an antilock brake system (ABS), use the heel-and-toe
method, but do not remove your foot from the brake. When you
put on the brakes hard enough to make the wheels lock momentarily,
you will typically feel the brake pedal pulse back against
your foot.
DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL OR REMOVE YOUR FOOT FROM THE BRAKE. The system is working
as it was designed to work.
How ABS works:
In a vehicle that has antilock brakes, a sensor located at
each wheel detects when the wheel stops turning and starts
to skid. As soon as the skid is detected, the antilock system
relieves the pressure just enough to allow the wheel to turn
again. This allows you to steer while you continue to bring
the vehicle to a stop. Pumping the pedal works against the
system by providing false information.
Some Additional Hints
- Avoid driving while fatigued.
- Use your seatbelt every time
you get in the car.
- Never warm up a vehicle in an enclosed
area, such as a garage.
- Make certain your tires are properly
inflated.
- Never mix radial tires with other tire types.
- Keep your gas
tank at least half full to avoid gas line freeze. up.
- If possible,
avoid using your parking brake in cold, rainy and snowy weather.