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How To Go On Ice and Snow

Preface

How To Go On Ice and Snow presents well-illustrated, easy-to-read information that will aid you in becoming a safe and efficient driver despite winter's adverse weather conditions.

This section contains information on vehicle systems, driver preparation, winter driving techniques—starting, tracking and following, steering and stopping and additional hints and precautions helpful to front-, rear- and four- wheel-drive vehicle operators. In most cars, the power train sends power from the engine to only two of the wheels. The wheels that receive the power are called drive wheels. If the front wheels receive the power, the car has front-wheel drive. If the rear wheels receive the power, the car has rear-wheel drive.

A vehicle has four-wheel drive if all four wheels receive the power. On a slippery surface, four-wheel drive vehicles provide the greatest amount of traction followed by front-wheel drive vehicles. Rear-wheel drive vehicles provide the least amount of traction on a slippery surface. To derive the greatest benefit from this information, it is suggested that you read beforehand the procedures and techniques described, then practice in a safe, secluded area.


Preparing the Vehicle

From a mechanical operation aspect, winter conditions— wet, cold and icy weather—present the greatest challenge to your engine's operating efficiency. Since these conditions cannot be avoided, prepare for winter by getting a complete vehicle checkup in the fall. Check, or have your mechanic check, the following items:

  • Electrical System
  • Brake System
  • Tires
  • The Exhaust System
  • Heating & Cooling System
  • Windshield Wipers & Washer


1) Electrical System

Battery:

The heart of your vehicle's electrical system is the battery. Cold weather starts require a battery that is fully charged. Recharge or replace weak batteries. If appropriate, check the fluid levels and make certain the battery posts are clean and tight. Have your alternator or generator and voltage regulator checked, too.

Ignition System:

Damaged ignition wires, a cracked distributor cap, or worn spark plugs can make starting difficult or may cause a sudden breakdown. A fall car check-up will reveal any problems.

Lights:

Check the headlights, side-marker lights, emergency flashers, parking lights, directional signals (front and rear), taillights and brake lights for proper operation.


2) Brake System

To avoid skids on slippery surfaces you need to prevent the wheels from locking when brakes are suddenly applied. Many cars are equipped with antilock brakes. They are designed to prevent wheel lock and allow you to steer the vehicle during sudden or panic braking. Brakes should be checked and, if needed, properly adjusted to ensure equal braking.


3) Tires

Tires are the only contact your vehicle has with the roadway. The amount of traction that exists between the tires and roadway surface determines how well the vehicle starts, turns and stops. Make certain your tires are properly inflated and in good condition. Snow tires are recommended, but chains provide the best starting and stopping performance in severe snow and on icy surfaces. Radial tires are not snow tires unless they have a snow tread configuration and are marked "M&S" (Mud & Snow). If you live in a region that receives light to moderate snowfall, then a set of all-season radials might be the answer to your winter driving needs. Added traction can be achieved by mounting snow tires on the drive wheels. Maximum tire pressure should not exceed that shown on the tire sidewall (the number is molded into the rubber). If the use of chains is necessary, they should be used on all four wheels.


4) The Exhaust System

The exhaust system serves two main purposes. First, it carries off carbon monoxide and other harmful gases produced by the engine. Second, it muffles engine noise. Have a mechanic check your exhaust system for leaks in order to minimize the chances of carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is odorless, very hard to detect, and it can kill. If your car is stuck in the snow and you have the engine and heater running, open a window slightly and clear snow away from the exhaust pipe.


5) Heating & Cooling System

Check your radiator and hoses for leaks and cracks. Make sure the water pump and thermostat work properly to pump and control the flow of coolant to maintain the best operating temperature. In addition, add a sufficient amount of antifreeze to your vehicle for the coldest weather (at least -30°F). Test the heater and defroster for proper operation.


6) Windshield Wipers & Washer

Wipers should be checked for proper functioning. Blades that streak the windshield should be replaced. The washer reservoir bottle should be filled with an antifreeze washer solvent.


Winter Driving Kit

The following items carried in your automobile will be invaluable should an emergency develop:

  • Tire chains
  • Ice scraper
  • Small bag of abrasive (sand, salt or kitty litter)
  • Cloth or roll of material
  • Booster cables
  • Small snow shovel
  • Blanket
  • Snow brush • Warning devices
  • Traction mats (flares or triangles)
  • Flashlight


Preparing The Driver

To minimize the dangers associated with winter driving, both the vehicle and the driver must be prepared in advance. For the driver this means approaching winter driving with the right frame of mind—always drive at a speed that matches the prevailing visibility, traffic and road conditions.



Select Clothing

Select clothing that provides warmth, comfort and freedom of movement. Heavy garments and gloves offer warmth when outside, but after a few minutes in the car, after the engine has warmed up, they should be removed for comfort and freedom of movement. Stop the vehicle in a safe spot to remove any outdoor clothing rather than compounding a risky situation by struggling out of a heavy coat while driving. It is neither healthy nor safe to under- or over-dress before or while driving; among other things, your ability to concentrate is diminished. A zip-fastened, lined jacket and a pair of thin leather gloves are ideal for winter motoring. They give appropriate warmth, comfort and freedom of movement both inside and outside the vehicle with minimal adjustment.


See & Be Seen

To see and be seen by others requires the driver to clean all snow and ice from the entire vehicle—hood, roof, trunk, lights and windows. Snow left on any of these areas increases the possibility that visibility will be affected when the car is in motion. Before departing, start your car and turn the heater on for a minute or two before using the defroster. This will prevent moisture from fogging the windshield when warm air hits the cold glass. To prevent damage to your wiper blades or wiper motor, be sure the wipers are off before starting the engine. Try to avoid driving when visibility is poor, but if you must drive, keep your speed low, headlights on low beam, and pull off to a safe spot as soon as possible.


Correct Seat Position

Correct seat position and use of protective equipment (seatbelts and sunglasses to combat glare) will aid you in seeing and performing those gentle, smooth, precise movements necessary for safe winter motoring. The correct seating position is achieved when the driver's elbows are slightly bent, and he/she can effortlessly reach the pedals, operate all controls and turn the steering wheel. The use of safety belts enhances your ability to control the vehicle in an emergency by keeping you behind the wheel.


Winter Driving Techniques: Starting

To get started, clear a path in front of the wheels for several feet. This can be accomplished by driving forward and backward in the parking space, or if the snow is too deep, some additional shoveling may be required. With the front wheels pointed straight to minimize rolling resistance, shift to second gear (manual transmissions) or to drive (automatic transmissions), and with gentle pressure of the accelerator, try to ease out of the parking space without spinning the wheels. If you let the wheels spin, you will only dig deeper.

Some new cars are equipped with traction assist. This device is designed to prevent wheel spin, especially on a slippery surface when accelerating.

When more traction is needed, use traction mats or spread some sand, salt or any handy abrasive material in front of and in back of the drive wheels. When using devices under the wheels for additional traction or when wheels are digging into dirt or gravel and you are receiving pushing assistance, DO NOT LET ANYONE STAND DIRECTLY IN LINE WITH THE DRIVE WHEELS—they may be injured by objects thrown by the spinning wheels. If the wheels continue to spin, creating a deeper rut, stop and let the tires cool. If nothing works, you might try rocking the vehicle out of the rut. To rock a vehicle, start slowly in second gear (manual transmission) or low gear (automatic transmission). When the vehicle will go no farther forward, release the accelerator to permit the car to roll back. When the vehicle stops its backward motion, apply minimum pressure on the accelerator again. Repeat these actions in rapid succession. Each rock should move the vehicle a little farther forward or back of the hole you are in. When you rock, you must use minimum power to help prevent the wheels from spinning and digging in deeper. (Check the owner's manual for recommended procedure.)


Tracking & Following

When driving on slippery surfaces, remember: traction is greatest just before the wheels spin. Gentle pressure on the accelerator pedal when starting is the best method for retaining traction and avoiding skids—especially if your vehicle is not equipped with a traction-assist device. If your wheels start to spin, let up on the accelerator until traction returns.

Once underway, keep going. When approaching a hill, observe how other vehicles are reacting and keep far enough behind the vehicle immediately ahead so that you will not have to slow down or stop. This will allow you to maneuver around any stuck vehicles and to increase your speed (within reason) at or near the bottom of the hill to give you the extra momentum to carry you over the top. As you reach the crest of the hill, reduce your speed and proceed down the hill as slowly as possible. Minimize brake use on very slippery, icy hills; if further speed reduction is needed, gentle, slow brake application (squeeze braking) is recommended to avoid locking the wheels and skidding.

Normal dry pavement following distance (2 to 3 seconds) should be increased to 8 to 10 seconds when driving on icy, slippery surfaces. This increased margin of safety in front will provide the longer distance needed if you have to stop.


Steering

Snowy or icy surfaces make steering difficult and require smooth, careful, precise movements of the steering wheel. Skidding in which the front, rear or all four wheels move laterally is caused by hard acceleration or braking, speed too fast for conditions, and quick jerky movements of the steering wheel. Skids can best be avoided by anticipating lane changes, turns and curves; slowing down in advance; and by making smooth, precise movements of the steering wheel.

If a skid should develop due to deteriorating road conditions and/or high speed, don't panic. Don't brake. Don't jerk the steering wheel. In all skids, disconnect the driving force on the drive wheels. To accomplish this, DECLUTCH (manual shift) or shift to NEUTRAL (automatic shift). De-clutching is easy; however, shifting to neutral with an automatic transmission is not as easy, requires practice and should not be attempted unless you are certain of finding neutral immediately. Next, to maintain or regain directional control, look to where you want to go and make smooth, precise steering movements.

In cars with automatic transmissions, shift to neutral only if you are certain of finding neutral immediately. Avoid depressing the lock mechanism to protect against placing the car in reverse.


Skids

A skid occurs when you apply the brakes so hard that one or more wheels lock, or if you press hard on the accelerator and spin the drive wheels. Skids also occur when you are traveling too fast on a curve and encounter a slippery surface. Skids fall into three groups: rear-wheel skids, front-wheel skids and four-wheel skids. Regardless of the type of skid you encounter, to regain control of your vehicle, DO NOT PANIC!


REAR-WHEEL SKIDS

The most effective way to get your vehicle back under control during a skid is as follows:

  1. Take your foot off the brake if the rear wheels skid due to hard or panic braking. Ease off the accelerator if the rear wheels lose traction due to hard acceleration.
  2. De-clutch on a car with a manual transmission or shift to neutral (if you are certain of finding neutral immediately) on a car with automatic transmission.
  3. Look and steer in the direction you want the front of the car to go.
  4. Just before the rear wheels stop skidding to the right or left, counter-steer until you are going in the desired direction.
  5. In a rear-wheel drive vehicle, if you over-correct the first skid (Step 4), be prepared for a rear-wheel skid in the opposite direction. Practice and the use of timely, gentle movement of the steering wheel are necessary to avoid this type of skid.
  6. Once the vehicle is straight, release the clutch or shift to drive, apply gentle accelerator pressure so that the engine speed matches the road speed, and accelerate smoothly to a safe speed.


Front-Wheel Skids

Front-wheel skids are caused by hard braking or accelerating. When the front wheels lose traction, you will not be able to steer the vehicle. Sometimes front-wheel skids are perceived as more dangerous because they are experienced less often. In actuality, front-wheel skids are easier to correct and less hazardous because there is no risk of the car skidding in the opposite direction. Regardless of whether the vehicle has front-, rear- or four-wheel drive, the best way to regain control if the front wheels skid is:

  1. Take your foot off the brake if the front wheels skid due to hard or panic braking. Ease your foot off the accelerator if the front wheels lose traction due to hard acceleration.
  2. De-clutch on a car with manual transmission, or shift to neutral (if you are certain of finding neutral immediately) on a car with automatic transmission.
  3. If the front wheels have been turned prior to the loss of traction, don't move the steering wheel. Since the wheels are skidding sideways, a certain amount of braking force will be exerted. (Unwinding the steering wheel will reduce the steering angle and result in regaining steering sooner; however, the vehicle will be traveling faster because there is little sideways braking force. This technique should only be attempted in situations where limited space and sharp curves exist.)
  4. Wait for the front wheels to grip the road again. As soon as traction returns the vehicle will start to steer again.
  5. When the front wheels have regained their grip, steer the wheels gently in the desired direction of travel.
  6. Release the clutch or shift to drive and apply gentle accelerator pressure so that the engine speed matches the road speed, and accelerate smoothly to a safe speed.

There is no risk at all of the car skidding in the opposite direction.


Four-Wheel Skids

Sometimes all four wheels lose traction. This generally occurs when the vehicle is driven at a speed too fast for conditions. Here are three situations that often result in four-wheel skids: 1) you enter a curve that is wet or covered with ice, snow, sand, gravel or wet leaves; 2) you are driving down the road and cross a bridge covered with invisible ice, commonly referred to as "black ice"; 3) you are driving on a slippery straight road and apply the brakes too hard (generally in this situation the rear wheels will lock or skid a second or two before the front wheels). The most effective way to get your vehicle back under control when all four wheels skid is:

  1. Ease foot off the accelerator or take your foot off the brake.
  2. De-clutch on a car with manual transmission or shift to neutral (if you are certain of finding neutral immediately) on a car with automatic transmission.
  3. Look and steer in the direction you want the front of the car to go.
  4. Wait for the wheels to grip the road again. As soon as the wheels regain traction, the vehicle will travel in the desired direction.
  5. Release the clutch or shift to drive and maintain a safe speed.


Stopping

Stopping on slippery surfaces requires longer seeing, following and stopping distances. Drivers proficient at driving and braking on slippery surfaces have acquired these techniques by practicing in secluded areas beforehand. These drivers are also knowledgeable of the additional dangers associated with and created by temperature changes at 32°F—stopping distances on ice are twice as great as at 0°F—and certain roadway areas such as shaded spots, bridges, overpasses and intersections. These are areas where ice is likely to form first or be the slipperiest, because the shiny ice surface has either been polished by previous vehicle traffic, or a thin layer of water covers the melting ice below. To compensate for the longer stopping distances required when driving on slippery surfaces, focus your attention as far ahead as possible (at least 20 to 30 seconds) and allow for the greatest margin of safety to the front. When road conditions change, so do the braking requirements.


Braking On Ice & Snow

The most efficient technique for braking under these conditions is to use threshold or squeeze braking together with de-clutching (manual shift) or shifting to neutral (automatic transmission).

Braking if you don't have antilock brakes:

If you don't have antilock brakes, the best way to threshold or squeeze brake (to make a controlled stop) is the heel-and-toe method. Keep the heel of your foot on the floor and use your toes to apply firm, steady pressure on the brake pedal just short of lockup the point at which the wheels stop turning. But remember you must keep your heel on the floor. The instant you lift your foot from the floor and place the ball of the foot on the brake pedal, the wheels will lock because you will be controlling the brake with your large thigh muscles, which are incapable of finer control. Under the stress of trying to stop quickly, drivers almost inevitably overreact and lock the wheels. If this happens, use toe-and-heel action to release brake pressure one or two degrees, then immediately reapply it with slightly less pressure.

Braking with antilock brakes:

If you have an antilock brake system (ABS), use the heel-and-toe method, but do not remove your foot from the brake. When you put on the brakes hard enough to make the wheels lock momentarily, you will typically feel the brake pedal pulse back against your foot.

DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL OR REMOVE YOUR FOOT FROM THE BRAKE.
The system is working as it was designed to work.

How ABS works:

In a vehicle that has antilock brakes, a sensor located at each wheel detects when the wheel stops turning and starts to skid. As soon as the skid is detected, the antilock system relieves the pressure just enough to allow the wheel to turn again. This allows you to steer while you continue to bring the vehicle to a stop. Pumping the pedal works against the system by providing false information.


Some Additional Hints

  1. Avoid driving while fatigued.
  2. Use your seatbelt every time you get in the car.
  3. Never warm up a vehicle in an enclosed area, such as a garage.
  4. Make certain your tires are properly inflated.
  5. Never mix radial tires with other tire types.
  6. Keep your gas tank at least half full to avoid gas line freeze. up.
  7. If possible, avoid using your parking brake in cold, rainy and snowy weather.